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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.